Anaglyph ghosting is usually amplified by lossy compression and also by conversion to CMYK for printing, so learning how to control it is crucial!
My “anaglyph optimization” process actually deals with the final color shades in the anaglyph, which is important for removing most of the retinal rivalry caused by colors (one eye seeing different shades than the other… it’s actually caused by shade differences, not color differences, since the left, red eye is monochromatic, i.e. only one color, and that color is red), but reducing or stopping anaglyph ghosting is a totally different witch hunt.
Some people try to solve the ghosting problem by adjusting (reducing) the contrast, but whenever possible, I prefer, instead, to retain all the original contrast and shift the horizontal image (or “screen”) parallax. The amount of parallax shifting can even be animated (for slide shows, movies, animations, etc).
So where do you shift it to?… Well, where ever the highest contrast areas are located in the scene is one way to determine where to shift it, or you can shift it so that the main subject is placed at “zero parallax” (the apparent screen depth), or lastly, you can shift the zero parallax to a point “about 1/3rd to half way back” in the z-axis depth… what I call “splitting the difference”, as far as ghosting goes.
The problem with shifting the parallax is you can introduce another problem in the process, and that is window edge violations (objects “coming out at you”, off the screen, but only visible with one eye, not both eyes), but you can then solve that problem by floating the window, and the window can actually be changed from scene to scene or frame to frame, too, or animated. The stereo window just becomes another stereoscopic element in the scene… but be careful, because crisp, floating window edges are also prone to severe ghosting (that’s why I slightly feather the edges).
Also, for anaglyph projection on large screens, remember _not_ to introduce eye divergence in the audience (I know, I know… too much stuff to worry about, but if it was easy, everyone would be doing this 3D thing, don’t ya know… ;-))
And don’t forget to control (limit) the amount of depth in the first place (e.g. with “less” stereo base), because that is actually the best way to help control ghosting.
Hope this helps!



The image above is in 3D. To see it in 3D, wear red/cyan anaglyph glasses with the red lens over the left eye.
























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